![]() More details of this dissipation procedure will be discussed later. Each is positioned over a strip of aluminum foil, surrounded my electrical tape, and covered in hot glue. In my test setup, I used a 5V power supply to illuminate 6 different LEDs with individual 100Ω series resistors. Regardless, I highly suggest you test the LEDs you want to use to make sure you have enough. Hopefully, you can use my results and skip this step entirely! At first, I planned on using clear enclosed red LEDs, but decided to do some testing to see what color actually worked the best. Obviously, I am using all through hole parts. This step may seem trivial, but there is a lot to consider here. ![]() Helping Hands - Not entirely necessary, but definitely very helpful. It's also a great way to protect and insulate the soldered leads. Hot Glue Gun - Hot Glue works very well to dissipate LED light. Sharp Pick - I use a dental pick, but an ice pick would also work it just needs to be thin and sharp. Sheer Black Pantyhose - For filtering the display output (see Step 10) Some lengths of a much smaller gauge would be fine for connecting LEDs together in strings. The wire gauge for the power lines should be just big enough to handle a half of an amp max, so 25 gauge or bigger wire is good. Wire - You will need at least a few feet, depending upon how long of leads you need. More on the selection will be discussed in Step 2 - Picking Out LEDs.īlack Paint - This isn't necesary, especially if you get black foam board, but I like the look of the black background behind the LEDs. ![]() LEDs - This design uses 2 LEDs per segment, so 14 per digit plus 2 for the colon (dot). A full sheet of foam board can be found at many dollar stores or at any craft store. Foam Board - As with most all of my LED array projects, I like to use crafting foam board as the base instead of a solderable perf board or PCB.
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